1. Raise mast and leave 1 9/16" between the aft side of mast and the inside of the mast step slot. It's a good idea to make a little piece of wood or star board so that the mast can butt up against it and maintain this distance.

2. Center the mast using jib (not main) halyard to measure to each side. Straighten the mast with the lowers, sighting from the deck to the hounds. Make the uppers and lowers barely snug. All adjustments to the shrouds after this are made with equal turns on each side.

3. Measure rake with a 50" tape two blocked at the main halyard sheave. First measure mast length to top of step. It should be 29' 9". If it's longer or shorter you will have to extrapolate the next measurement. Measure to the top of the plate surrounding the backstay chainplate at the stern. This measurement should be 31' 10½". Lengthen or shorten the forestay to reach this measurement.

4. With the Black Loos Gauge set the uppers at 27 and the lowers at 23. This seems to be a good setting for 8-12 knots. A better way to set the lowers is to go upwind, have the crew hike hard while one crewman sights up the mast. There should be about 3/4" of sag where the lowers come into the mast. Tighten or loosen the lowers to attain this sag.

5. You should also have about 3/4" of pre bend in the mast. Pre bend can be induced at the partners with shims between the deck and mast.

6. Start tightening as breeze builds. Two turns on the uppers generally equal one turn on the lower. Never make the lowers tighter than the uppers unless you want to buy my spare mast advertised in the "For Sale" section of this web site.

7. You should recheck your measurements from time to time. I've noticed differences in and out of the water and over periods of time. Also realize that changing one setting can change others.